But here is the problem most buyers run into: UV DTF film looks simple on the surface, but there are real differences between film grades, A film types, B film tack levels, roll widths, and substrate compatibility that determine whether your transfers look professional or peel off after a week.<\/p>\n
This guide covers everything \u2014 what UV DTF film is, how the A\/B system works, which film type matches which surface, what roll sizes you need, how to evaluate quality, and what to expect on pricing. By the end, you will know exactly what to order and why.<\/p>\n
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Key Takeaways<\/h2>\n\n- UV DTF film<\/strong> is a two-film transfer system (A film + B film) used to apply UV-printed designs to hard, rigid surfaces without heat pressing<\/li>\n
- UV DTF film A and B<\/strong> serve distinct roles: A film is the printable layer; B film is the transfer carrier that moves the design to the final surface<\/li>\n
- The process requires a UV printer, UV-curable ink, a laminator, and matched A\/B film \u2014 not a heat press<\/li>\n
- UV DTF transfers<\/strong> adhere to glass, acrylic, metal, ceramic, wood, plastic, and leather \u2014 but not fabric (that requires standard DTF)<\/li>\n
- Film quality is determined by ink receptivity, release consistency, B film adhesive clarity, and resistance to curling during lamination<\/li>\n
- UV DTF film rolls<\/strong> come in standard widths of 30cm (A3) and 60cm \u2014 match width to your printer’s print area, with B film typically 2cm wider than A film<\/li>\n
- Clear, white ground, gold, and silver A film variants serve different design applications<\/li>\n
- Factory-direct sourcing from a manufacturer with in-house coating capability delivers better price-per-meter and supply consistency than distributor purchasing<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
What Is UV DTF Film?<\/h2>\n
UV DTF film<\/strong> is a cold-transfer printing media used in UV DTF printing<\/strong> \u2014 a process where UV-curable inks are printed onto a specially coated film, laminated with a second film, and then applied by pressure to a hard surface.<\/p>\nThe name combines two technologies:<\/p>\n
\n- UV<\/strong> \u2014 ultraviolet light cures the ink immediately after it is deposited, creating a hard, durable print layer<\/li>\n
- DTF (Direct to Film)<\/strong> \u2014 the design is first created on film, then transferred to the final substrate, rather than printing directly onto the object<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
The result is a UV DTF transfer<\/strong> \u2014 essentially a precision-made pressure-sensitive decal with UV-ink quality, capable of being applied to surfaces that UV printers cannot physically reach: small cylindrical objects, irregularly shaped items, curved surfaces, and items too large for a flatbed printer bed.<\/p>\nWhat Makes UV DTF Film Different from Regular Transfer Film<\/h3>\n
Standard heat transfer film uses heat and pressure to bond a transfer to fabric. UV DTF transfer film<\/strong> uses UV-cured ink and a cold pressure-adhesive to bond a design to rigid, non-porous surfaces. No heat press. No powder. No steaming. The transfer is applied with a squeegee or fingers \u2014 similar to applying a premium sticker.<\/p>\nThe key advantage is surface range. Where heat transfer is limited to fabric and sublimation is limited to polyester, UV DTF printing<\/strong> works on:<\/p>\n\n- Glass and crystal<\/li>\n
- Acrylic and Plexiglass<\/li>\n
- Coated metal and aluminum<\/li>\n
- Ceramic and porcelain<\/li>\n
- Wood and MDF (sealed or coated)<\/li>\n
- Leather and faux leather<\/li>\n
- Plastic and PVC<\/li>\n
- Phone cases, tumblers, mugs, bottles, and packaging<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
One important limitation: UV DTF film<\/strong> does not work on fabric. For textile transfers, standard DTF film with hot-melt powder is the correct product. The two processes are entirely separate.<\/p>\nUV DTF Film A and B: How the Two-Film System Works<\/h2>\n
This is the part that confuses most first-time buyers. UV DTF film A and B<\/strong> are two distinct rolls used together in sequence \u2014 not interchangeable, not optional.<\/p>\nA Film (Print Film)<\/h3>\n
A film<\/strong> is the printable layer \u2014 the surface onto which the UV printer deposits ink.<\/p>\nConstructed from high-clarity PET substrate, A film has a specialized coating that:<\/p>\n
\n- Anchors UV-curable ink precisely without bleeding or spreading<\/li>\n
- Holds the ink layer during lamination without releasing it to B film<\/li>\n
- Releases cleanly from the design when peeled after transfer application<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
A film comes with a protective liner that must be peeled before loading into the printer. The printable surface faces up during printing. UV lights cure each layer of ink \u2014 typically white base, CMYK colors, and varnish \u2014 immediately as it is deposited.<\/p>\n
A film sizing note:<\/strong> For A3 printers, A film width is typically 29\u201330cm. For 60cm UV DTF printers, A film is 60cm wide.<\/p>\nB Film (Transfer \/ Carrier Film)<\/h3>\n
B film<\/strong> is the lamination and transfer layer \u2014 the film that bonds with the ink surface and carries the design to the final substrate.<\/p>\nB film is a pressure-sensitive adhesive film \u2014 typically PVC-based \u2014 that performs three functions:<\/p>\n
\n- Bonds with the printed ink layer<\/strong> during cold lamination, without bonding to the A film itself<\/li>\n
- Carries the design<\/strong> after A film is peeled away<\/li>\n
- Transfers and adheres<\/strong> the design to the final surface using hand pressure or a squeegee<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
B film is always slightly wider than A film<\/strong> \u2014 typically 2cm wider \u2014 to provide lamination margin and prevent edge misalignment. For an A3 setup: A film = 30cm, B film = 32cm.<\/p>\nThe Complete A\/B Film Workflow<\/h3>\n\n- Print<\/strong> \u2014 Design is printed onto A film using UV-curable ink (white + CMYK + varnish layers)<\/li>\n
- Cure<\/strong> \u2014 UV lights cure each ink layer during printing<\/li>\n
- Laminate<\/strong> \u2014 B film is cold-laminated over the printed A film using a laminator<\/li>\n
- Cut<\/strong> \u2014 Transfer is cut to size<\/li>\n
- Peel A film<\/strong> \u2014 A film is removed; design transfers to B film (ink sticks to B film’s adhesive, not to A film)<\/li>\n
- Apply B film<\/strong> \u2014 B film with design is pressed onto the target surface using squeegee or fingers<\/li>\n
- Peel B film<\/strong> \u2014 B film is removed; design remains bonded to the surface<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
The design is now permanently on the substrate. No heat. No water. Pressure only.<\/p>\n
Types of UV DTF Film<\/h2>\n
The “type” of UV DTF film<\/strong> usually refers to the A film variant \u2014 B film is largely standardized across applications. Understanding A film types lets you match the output finish to your customer’s requirements.<\/p>\nClear A Film (Standard)<\/h3>\n
The most widely used A film type. The PET base is fully transparent, meaning the design prints directly onto the substrate’s surface color. Finished transfers have a glossy, label-like appearance with sharp color.<\/p>\n
Best for:<\/strong> Glass, acrylic, metal, ceramic, phone cases \u2014 any surface where transparency highlights the substrate color.<\/p>\nLimitation:<\/strong> On dark or colored surfaces, colors may appear less vibrant without a white base layer (printer must print white ink first for opacity on dark substrates).<\/p>\nWhite Ground A Film<\/h3>\n
A film with a white opaque coating as the base layer. White ground film produces fully opaque transfers with vivid color on any surface color \u2014 including dark substrates \u2014 without requiring the printer to deposit extra white ink.<\/p>\n
Best for:<\/strong> Dark-colored substrates where color opacity is critical. Packaging decoration, branded merchandise, and promotional products where color accuracy on any background is required.<\/p>\nDurability note:<\/strong> Clear film transfers typically last longer outdoors (2+ years) than white ground film (which may yellow over time in UV exposure). For outdoor applications, clear film with white ink printed by the UV printer is the more durable choice.<\/p>\nGold and Silver A Film<\/h3>\n
Specialty A film with metallic foil base layers. Designs printed on gold or silver A film have a metallic background that shows through transparent or translucent areas of the design, creating a premium foil-effect transfer.<\/p>\n
Best for:<\/strong> High-end packaging, luxury promotional merchandise, awards, and branded items where metallic aesthetics add perceived value.<\/p>\nNote:<\/strong> Gold and silver A film variants use the same B film as clear and white ground \u2014 the B film specification does not change with A film type.<\/p>\nMatte A Film<\/h3>\n
A film with a matte surface coating. Produces transfers with a flat, non-reflective finish. Preferred for applications where high-gloss appearance would be inappropriate or where a premium matte aesthetic is desired.<\/p>\n
Best for:<\/strong> Branded corporate merchandise, luxury packaging, and decorative applications where matte finish aligns with brand standards.<\/p>\nLow-Tack vs. High-Tack B Film<\/h3>\n
B film adhesive strength \u2014 tack level \u2014 is the specification that most affects transfer application and surface compatibility.<\/p>\n
Low-tack B film:<\/strong> Easier to apply, easier to reposition, gentler on delicate surface coatings. Lower adhesion strength means less suitable for highly textured or porous surfaces.<\/p>\nHigh-tack B film:<\/strong> Stronger grip, better adhesion on slightly textured or hard-to-stick surfaces. More difficult to remove if misapplied, and carries risk of lifting surface coatings on delicate finishes.<\/p>\nPractical rule:<\/strong> Start with standard (mid-tack) B film and test on your specific substrates. If adhesion fails, move to high-tack. If application causes surface damage, move to low-tack.<\/p>\nUV DTF Film Roll Sizes: Which One Do You Need?<\/h2>\nStandard Widths<\/h3>\n
\n\n\nFilm Type<\/th>\n Standard Width<\/th>\n Printer Compatibility<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n \n\nA film (A3)<\/td>\n 29\u201330cm<\/td>\n A3 UV DTF printers<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nB film (A3)<\/td>\n 30\u201332cm<\/td>\n A3 UV DTF printers<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nA film (60cm)<\/td>\n 60cm<\/td>\n 60cm UV DTF printers<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nB film (60cm)<\/td>\n 60\u201362cm<\/td>\n 60cm UV DTF printers<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\nStandard Roll Length<\/h3>\n
100 meters is the standard wholesale roll length for both A and B film. Some suppliers offer 50m trial rolls. At production volume, 100m rolls reduce changeover frequency and deliver better cost-per-meter.<\/p>\n
Matching Film Width to Your Printer<\/h3>\n
The most common sizing mistake is ordering A film and B film at the same width. B film must be wider than A film \u2014 typically by 1 to 2cm \u2014 to provide lamination margin. For an A3 setup:<\/p>\n
\n- A film: 30cm wide<\/li>\n
- B film: 32cm wide<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
For a 60cm setup:<\/p>\n
\n- A film: 60cm wide<\/li>\n
- B film: 60\u201362cm wide<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
When ordering UV DTF film rolls<\/strong>, always confirm the A\/B width pairing with your supplier before committing to stock.<\/p>\nSheet vs. Roll Format<\/h3>\n
UV DTF film<\/strong> is available in both roll format (100m continuous) and pre-cut sheet format (A3\/A4 packs of 50 or 100 sheets).<\/p>\n\n\n\nFormat<\/th>\n Best For<\/th>\n Cost Per Unit<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n \n\nA3\/A4 sheets<\/td>\n Low volume, sampling, small desktop setups<\/td>\n Higher<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n100m rolls<\/td>\n Production volume, continuous workflow<\/td>\n Lower<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\nFor shops running more than 50 transfers per day, roll format delivers meaningfully lower cost per transfer.<\/p>\n
UV DTF vs. Standard DTF: What’s the Difference?<\/h2>\n
This is one of the most common points of confusion in the DTF printing<\/strong> market. The two processes share a name but use completely different materials, equipment, and applications.<\/p>\n\n\n\nFeature<\/th>\n UV DTF Film<\/th>\n Standard DTF Film<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n \n\nInk type<\/td>\n UV-curable ink<\/td>\n Water-based pigment ink<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nTransfer method<\/td>\n Cold pressure (no heat)<\/td>\n Heat press<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nRequires powder<\/td>\n No<\/td>\n Yes (hot-melt powder)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nTarget surfaces<\/td>\n Hard, rigid surfaces<\/td>\n Fabric and textiles<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nEquipment needed<\/td>\n UV printer + laminator<\/td>\n DTF printer + powder shaker + curing oven<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nWorks on fabric<\/td>\n No<\/td>\n Yes<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nWorks on glass\/metal\/acrylic<\/td>\n Yes<\/td>\n No<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nFinish<\/td>\n Glossy decal-like<\/td>\n Soft fabric transfer<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nWash durability<\/td>\n High (non-fabric surfaces)<\/td>\n 50+ wash cycles on fabric<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\nThe simple distinction: UV DTF film<\/strong> is for hard surface decoration. Standard DTF film<\/strong> is for fabric decoration. They are different products requiring different equipment and cannot substitute for each other.<\/p>\nHow to Choose the Right UV DTF Transfer Film<\/h2>\n
Choosing UV DTF transfer film<\/strong> is a four-variable decision: A film type, B film tack level, roll width, and supplier quality. Work through each systematically.<\/p>\nStep 1 \u2014 Match A Film Type to Your Output<\/h3>\n
Choose A film type based on the substrate color and finish requirement:<\/p>\n
\n- Light-colored substrates, glossy finish<\/strong> \u2192 Clear A film<\/li>\n
- Dark-colored substrates, opaque design<\/strong> \u2192 White ground A film (or clear A film with white ink layer printed)<\/li>\n
- Premium metallic finish<\/strong> \u2192 Gold or silver A film<\/li>\n
- Matte non-reflective finish<\/strong> \u2192 Matte A film<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Step 2 \u2014 Choose B Film Tack for Your Substrates<\/h3>\n
Tack level determines adhesion strength on the final surface:<\/p>\n
\n- Standard surfaces (glass, acrylic, coated metal)<\/strong> \u2192 Standard tack B film<\/li>\n
- Textured or hard-to-stick surfaces<\/strong> \u2192 High-tack B film<\/li>\n
- Delicate coatings, painted surfaces, soft finishes<\/strong> \u2192 Low-tack B film<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
When in doubt, always test on the actual substrate before committing to production volumes.<\/p>\n
Step 3 \u2014 Confirm Roll Width and Pairing<\/h3>\n
Verify A film and B film widths match your printer’s print area, with B film 1\u20132cm wider than A film. Ordering both at the same width is a common error that causes lamination alignment problems.<\/p>\n
Step 4 \u2014 Evaluate Film Quality Parameters<\/h3>\n
High-quality UV DTF film<\/strong> must satisfy these technical requirements:<\/p>\n\n- Ink receptivity<\/strong> \u2014 A film surface must anchor UV ink without bleeding, smearing, or ink lift during lamination<\/li>\n
- Release consistency<\/strong> \u2014 A film must release cleanly from the ink layer across the entire roll length, not just at the start<\/li>\n
- Adhesive clarity<\/strong> \u2014 B film adhesive must be optically clear and chemically inert \u2014 it must not yellow, distort color, or leave residue on the substrate<\/li>\n
- Dimensional stability<\/strong> \u2014 Both films must resist curling and bubbling during printing, lamination, and storage<\/li>\n
- Thickness tolerance<\/strong> \u2014 Both films should be 75\u2013100 microns with tight thickness consistency for reliable feed through laminators<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Step 5 \u2014 Test Before Scaling<\/h3>\n
Always run a peel test after lamination \u2014 verify A film releases cleanly and B film retains full design detail. Apply to each substrate type you intend to use in production, including glass, acrylic, and coated plastics. Test outdoor adhesion if applicable. Evaluate after 48 hours before ordering at volume.<\/p>\n
Step-by-Step: How UV DTF Printing Works<\/h2>\n
Understanding the complete UV DTF printing<\/strong> workflow helps you identify where film quality affects output and what to check at each stage.<\/p>\nStep 1 \u2014 Design Preparation<\/h3>\n
Create your design in vector or high-resolution raster format. Use RIP software to manage ink layer sequencing \u2014 white base, CMYK, and varnish. The varnish layer is what gives UV DTF transfers<\/strong> their characteristic gloss and scratch resistance.<\/p>\nStep 2 \u2014 Load A Film<\/h3>\n
Peel the protective liner from the A film to expose the printable adhesive surface. Load the A film into the UV DTF printer with the coated printable side facing up toward the print heads.<\/p>\n
Step 3 \u2014 Print<\/h3>\n
The UV printer deposits ink in layers: white base first (for opacity), then CMYK colors, then varnish. UV lights cure each layer immediately. The result is a hard, cured ink layer sitting on the surface of the A film’s adhesive coating.<\/p>\n
Step 4 \u2014 Laminate with B Film<\/h3>\n
Using a cold laminator, apply B film over the printed A film. The laminator presses the two films together, bonding B film’s pressure-sensitive adhesive to the cured ink surface of A film. Run slowly through the laminator to eliminate bubbles \u2014 air pockets cause transfer failure.<\/p>\n
Step 5 \u2014 Cut to Size<\/h3>\n
Cut the laminated A+B film to the desired transfer size. No need for precision cutting \u2014 a rough rectangle around the design is sufficient.<\/p>\n
Step 6 \u2014 Peel A Film<\/h3>\n
Slowly peel the A film backing away from the B film. The cured ink design separates from A film and remains on B film’s adhesive surface. If ink lifts with A film or partially releases, it indicates an ink compatibility issue, insufficient curing, or A film quality problem.<\/p>\n
Step 7 \u2014 Apply to Surface<\/h3>\n
Clean the target surface thoroughly \u2014 dust, oils, and fingerprints are the primary cause of adhesion failure. Place the B film (design facing down) onto the cleaned surface and press firmly using a squeegee, credit card, or fingers, working from center to edges.<\/p>\n
Step 8 \u2014 Peel B Film<\/h3>\n
Slowly peel B film away at a low angle. The design remains bonded to the surface. If design lifts with B film, the surface was not clean enough, or B film tack level is too low for that substrate.<\/p>\n
Common UV DTF Problems and How to Fix Them<\/h2>\nProblem: A Film Does Not Release Cleanly (Ink Lifts with A Film)<\/h3>\n
Cause:<\/strong> Ink undercured, incompatible A film coating, or A film quality issue.<\/p>\nFix:<\/strong> Increase UV cure intensity or speed. Verify A film is rated for your UV ink chemistry. Test with film from a different production batch.<\/p>\nProblem: Bubbles in the Transfer After Lamination<\/h3>\n
Cause:<\/strong> Lamination speed too fast, laminator temperature too low, or film curl.<\/p>\nFix:<\/strong> Reduce laminator speed. Increase laminator temperature to minimum 40\u00b0C. Store film flat in controlled humidity to prevent pre-lamination curl.<\/p>\nProblem: Design Peels Off the Surface After Application<\/h3>\n
Cause:<\/strong> Surface contamination, wrong B film tack level, or substrate incompatibility.<\/p>\nFix:<\/strong> Clean surface with isopropyl alcohol before application. Test high-tack B film if standard tack is failing. Verify the substrate has a coating that UV DTF adhesive can bond to (silicone surfaces are notoriously difficult).<\/p>\nProblem: Color Appears Dull or Different from Design<\/h3>\n
Cause:<\/strong> A film coating causing ink color shift, or B film adhesive yellowing.<\/p>\nFix:<\/strong> Verify A film is high-clarity optical grade. Test B film adhesive transparency against a white surface. Check RIP software color profile settings.<\/p>\nProblem: Transfer Works Initially but Peels After Days<\/h3>\n
Cause:<\/strong> Surface preparation failure, low-tack B film on a difficult substrate, or environmental factors (humidity, heat).<\/p>\nFix:<\/strong> Improve surface cleaning protocol. Test high-tack B film. Test temperature resistance \u2014 B film adhesive should withstand 100\u00b0C. Avoid outdoor direct UV exposure on white ground transfers.<\/p>\nUV DTF Film Price: What to Expect<\/h2>\n
UV DTF film<\/strong> pricing varies by quality tier, roll width, order volume, and supplier type.<\/p>\nPrice Range by Tier<\/h3>\n
\n\n\nTier<\/th>\n A + B Film Price Per Meter (approx.)<\/th>\n Profile<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n \n\nEntry-level (generic)<\/td>\n $0.12 \u2013 $0.20<\/td>\n Inconsistent release, adhesive clarity issues<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nMid-range<\/td>\n $0.20 \u2013 $0.35<\/td>\n Adequate for standard applications<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nPremium factory-direct<\/td>\n $0.28 \u2013 $0.45<\/td>\n Consistent coating, high clarity, OEM available<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\nWhat Drives the Price Difference<\/h3>\n
The gap between entry-level and premium UV DTF transfer film<\/strong> is almost entirely accounted for by coating quality:<\/p>\n\n- A film coating<\/strong> \u2014 Generic A film often uses off-specification coating that causes inconsistent ink release. The first 10 meters of a roll perform differently from meter 50. Premium film with in-house coating development maintains consistent release characteristics across the full 100m roll length.<\/li>\n
- B film adhesive<\/strong> \u2014 Low-grade B film adhesive yellows over time, affecting transfer color on transparent designs. Premium adhesive remains optically clear and chemically stable.<\/li>\n
- Thickness tolerance<\/strong> \u2014 Cheap film varies in thickness across the roll, causing laminator feed problems and bubbling. Premium film maintains tight thickness specifications.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Sheet vs. Roll Pricing<\/h3>\n
Pre-cut A3 sheets are always more expensive per transfer than 100m rolls. For production operations, the cost-per-transfer difference between sheets and rolls is typically 40 to 60%. Moving to roll format is the single most impactful cost reduction for established UV DTF printing<\/strong> operations.<\/p>\nFactory-Direct vs. Distributor Pricing<\/h3>\n
UV DTF film<\/strong> purchased through local distributors or online resellers carries a 25 to 45% markup over factory cost. For shops ordering 10+ rolls per month, factory-direct sourcing from a manufacturer like Haiyi \u2014 which produces UV DTF film with in-house coating technology alongside its standard DTF film line \u2014 delivers meaningful long-term savings.<\/p>\n\u0427\u0430\u0441\u0442\u043e \u0437\u0430\u0434\u0430\u0432\u0430\u0435\u043c\u044b\u0435 \u0432\u043e\u043f\u0440\u043e\u0441\u044b<\/h2>\n
What is UV DTF film used for?<\/strong> UV DTF film<\/strong> is used to create pressure-sensitive transfers that apply UV-printed designs to hard, rigid surfaces \u2014 glass tumblers, acrylic panels, ceramic mugs, metal items, phone cases, wood, plastic, and leather. It is not for fabric. Fabric transfers require standard DTF film with hot-melt powder and a heat press.<\/p>\nWhat is UV DTF film A and B?<\/strong> UV DTF film A and B<\/strong> refers to the two-roll system used in UV DTF printing. A film is the printable layer \u2014 UV ink is printed directly onto its coated surface. B film is the transfer carrier \u2014 it is laminated over the printed A film, then used to apply the design to the final surface after A film is peeled away. Both films are used in every transfer and are not interchangeable.<\/p>\nCan I use UV DTF film on fabric?<\/strong> No. UV DTF film<\/strong> is designed for hard, non-porous surfaces. UV-curable ink does not bond to fabric fibers the way hot-melt powder does in standard DTF. For fabric transfers, use standard DTF film with water-based pigment ink, hot-melt powder, and a heat press.<\/p>\nDoes UV DTF printing require a heat press?<\/strong> No. UV DTF transfers<\/strong> are applied using cold pressure only \u2014 a squeegee, credit card, or fingers. No heat press is required for application. The only heat involved in the process is the UV curing during printing and the laminator temperature during B film application (typically 40\u201360\u00b0C).<\/p>\nWhat surfaces does UV DTF film NOT work on?<\/strong> UV DTF film performs poorly on silicone, fabric, highly textured surfaces, oily surfaces, and surfaces with soft or powder-coated finishes that can be damaged by adhesive. Always test on the actual substrate before scaling production. Surface cleaning is critical \u2014 even a fingerprint can cause adhesion failure.<\/p>\nWhat is the difference between clear and white ground UV DTF A film?<\/strong> Clear A film produces a transparent transfer that shows the substrate color through non-printed areas \u2014 best on light surfaces and where transparency is desired. White ground A film has an opaque white base that makes the design fully opaque and vivid on any substrate color, including dark surfaces. White ground transfers are less durable outdoors and may yellow over time.<\/p>\nHow do I store UV DTF film rolls?<\/strong> Store rolls horizontally in a cool, dry environment at 15\u201325\u00b0C with 40\u201360% relative humidity. Keep away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Reseal opened rolls in their original packaging between sessions. Improper storage causes curl, adhesive degradation, and feed problems.<\/p>\nWhat laminator do I need for UV DTF film?<\/strong> A cold roll laminator with adjustable temperature (minimum 40\u00b0C capability) is standard for UV DTF printing<\/strong>. The laminator must handle the combined A+B film width \u2014 for A3 setups, a laminator rated for 32\u201335cm width is typical. Ensure consistent pressure across the full roll width to prevent bubble formation.<\/p>\nHow durable are UV DTF transfers?<\/strong> On smooth, clean hard surfaces, high-quality UV DTF transfers<\/strong> are waterproof, scratch-resistant, and UV-resistant. Premium UV inks combined with quality A film can deliver 2+ years of durability on indoor applications. Outdoor durability varies by ink, varnish, and surface conditions \u2014 clear film with UV-resistant varnish outperforms white ground film in outdoor longevity.<\/p>\nWhat is the minimum order quantity for UV DTF film rolls from a factory?<\/strong> Factory-direct UV DTF film is typically available from 10 to 20 rolls for new wholesale accounts. Established manufacturers offer tiered pricing at higher volumes. OEM packaging with custom branding is generally available from 50 rolls per SKU. Sheet format packs (A3\/A4) often have lower minimums suitable for trial orders.<\/p>\nWhy does my UV DTF transfer peel off after a few days?<\/strong> The three most common causes are surface contamination (clean with isopropyl alcohol before application), incorrect B film tack level for the substrate (test high-tack B film), or insufficient pressure during application (use a squeegee and apply firm, even pressure across the entire design). Test adhesion on a sample before customer delivery.<\/p>\nConclusion<\/h2>\n
UV DTF film<\/strong> is not complicated once you understand the system. A film prints. B film transfers. The two work together to move a UV-cured design from the printing surface to almost any hard, smooth substrate \u2014 without heat, without powder, and without the equipment complexity of direct UV printing on irregular shapes.<\/p>\nThe variables that determine whether your transfers succeed or fail are not mysterious:<\/p>\n
\n- A film coating quality<\/strong> determines ink receptivity and release consistency across the full roll<\/li>\n
- B film adhesive clarity and tack level<\/strong> determines transfer clarity and adhesion to your specific substrate<\/li>\n
- Surface preparation<\/strong> is the most common application failure point \u2014 clean surfaces with isopropyl alcohol, always<\/li>\n
- Film sourcing<\/strong> determines cost-per-transfer at scale \u2014 factory-direct purchasing from a manufacturer with in-house coating technology delivers meaningful savings and quality advantages over distributor-sourced generic film<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
What Is UV DTF Film?<\/h2>\n
UV DTF film<\/strong> is a cold-transfer printing media used in UV DTF printing<\/strong> \u2014 a process where UV-curable inks are printed onto a specially coated film, laminated with a second film, and then applied by pressure to a hard surface.<\/p>\n The name combines two technologies:<\/p>\n The result is a UV DTF transfer<\/strong> \u2014 essentially a precision-made pressure-sensitive decal with UV-ink quality, capable of being applied to surfaces that UV printers cannot physically reach: small cylindrical objects, irregularly shaped items, curved surfaces, and items too large for a flatbed printer bed.<\/p>\n Standard heat transfer film uses heat and pressure to bond a transfer to fabric. UV DTF transfer film<\/strong> uses UV-cured ink and a cold pressure-adhesive to bond a design to rigid, non-porous surfaces. No heat press. No powder. No steaming. The transfer is applied with a squeegee or fingers \u2014 similar to applying a premium sticker.<\/p>\n The key advantage is surface range. Where heat transfer is limited to fabric and sublimation is limited to polyester, UV DTF printing<\/strong> works on:<\/p>\n One important limitation: UV DTF film<\/strong> does not work on fabric. For textile transfers, standard DTF film with hot-melt powder is the correct product. The two processes are entirely separate.<\/p>\n This is the part that confuses most first-time buyers. UV DTF film A and B<\/strong> are two distinct rolls used together in sequence \u2014 not interchangeable, not optional.<\/p>\n A film<\/strong> is the printable layer \u2014 the surface onto which the UV printer deposits ink.<\/p>\n Constructed from high-clarity PET substrate, A film has a specialized coating that:<\/p>\n A film comes with a protective liner that must be peeled before loading into the printer. The printable surface faces up during printing. UV lights cure each layer of ink \u2014 typically white base, CMYK colors, and varnish \u2014 immediately as it is deposited.<\/p>\n A film sizing note:<\/strong> For A3 printers, A film width is typically 29\u201330cm. For 60cm UV DTF printers, A film is 60cm wide.<\/p>\n B film<\/strong> is the lamination and transfer layer \u2014 the film that bonds with the ink surface and carries the design to the final substrate.<\/p>\n B film is a pressure-sensitive adhesive film \u2014 typically PVC-based \u2014 that performs three functions:<\/p>\n B film is always slightly wider than A film<\/strong> \u2014 typically 2cm wider \u2014 to provide lamination margin and prevent edge misalignment. For an A3 setup: A film = 30cm, B film = 32cm.<\/p>\n The design is now permanently on the substrate. No heat. No water. Pressure only.<\/p>\n The “type” of UV DTF film<\/strong> usually refers to the A film variant \u2014 B film is largely standardized across applications. Understanding A film types lets you match the output finish to your customer’s requirements.<\/p>\n The most widely used A film type. The PET base is fully transparent, meaning the design prints directly onto the substrate’s surface color. Finished transfers have a glossy, label-like appearance with sharp color.<\/p>\n Best for:<\/strong> Glass, acrylic, metal, ceramic, phone cases \u2014 any surface where transparency highlights the substrate color.<\/p>\n Limitation:<\/strong> On dark or colored surfaces, colors may appear less vibrant without a white base layer (printer must print white ink first for opacity on dark substrates).<\/p>\n A film with a white opaque coating as the base layer. White ground film produces fully opaque transfers with vivid color on any surface color \u2014 including dark substrates \u2014 without requiring the printer to deposit extra white ink.<\/p>\n Best for:<\/strong> Dark-colored substrates where color opacity is critical. Packaging decoration, branded merchandise, and promotional products where color accuracy on any background is required.<\/p>\n Durability note:<\/strong> Clear film transfers typically last longer outdoors (2+ years) than white ground film (which may yellow over time in UV exposure). For outdoor applications, clear film with white ink printed by the UV printer is the more durable choice.<\/p>\n Specialty A film with metallic foil base layers. Designs printed on gold or silver A film have a metallic background that shows through transparent or translucent areas of the design, creating a premium foil-effect transfer.<\/p>\n Best for:<\/strong> High-end packaging, luxury promotional merchandise, awards, and branded items where metallic aesthetics add perceived value.<\/p>\n Note:<\/strong> Gold and silver A film variants use the same B film as clear and white ground \u2014 the B film specification does not change with A film type.<\/p>\n A film with a matte surface coating. Produces transfers with a flat, non-reflective finish. Preferred for applications where high-gloss appearance would be inappropriate or where a premium matte aesthetic is desired.<\/p>\n Best for:<\/strong> Branded corporate merchandise, luxury packaging, and decorative applications where matte finish aligns with brand standards.<\/p>\n B film adhesive strength \u2014 tack level \u2014 is the specification that most affects transfer application and surface compatibility.<\/p>\n Low-tack B film:<\/strong> Easier to apply, easier to reposition, gentler on delicate surface coatings. Lower adhesion strength means less suitable for highly textured or porous surfaces.<\/p>\n High-tack B film:<\/strong> Stronger grip, better adhesion on slightly textured or hard-to-stick surfaces. More difficult to remove if misapplied, and carries risk of lifting surface coatings on delicate finishes.<\/p>\n Practical rule:<\/strong> Start with standard (mid-tack) B film and test on your specific substrates. If adhesion fails, move to high-tack. If application causes surface damage, move to low-tack.<\/p>\n 100 meters is the standard wholesale roll length for both A and B film. Some suppliers offer 50m trial rolls. At production volume, 100m rolls reduce changeover frequency and deliver better cost-per-meter.<\/p>\n The most common sizing mistake is ordering A film and B film at the same width. B film must be wider than A film \u2014 typically by 1 to 2cm \u2014 to provide lamination margin. For an A3 setup:<\/p>\n For a 60cm setup:<\/p>\n When ordering UV DTF film rolls<\/strong>, always confirm the A\/B width pairing with your supplier before committing to stock.<\/p>\n UV DTF film<\/strong> is available in both roll format (100m continuous) and pre-cut sheet format (A3\/A4 packs of 50 or 100 sheets).<\/p>\n For shops running more than 50 transfers per day, roll format delivers meaningfully lower cost per transfer.<\/p>\n This is one of the most common points of confusion in the DTF printing<\/strong> market. The two processes share a name but use completely different materials, equipment, and applications.<\/p>\n The simple distinction: UV DTF film<\/strong> is for hard surface decoration. Standard DTF film<\/strong> is for fabric decoration. They are different products requiring different equipment and cannot substitute for each other.<\/p>\n Choosing UV DTF transfer film<\/strong> is a four-variable decision: A film type, B film tack level, roll width, and supplier quality. Work through each systematically.<\/p>\n Choose A film type based on the substrate color and finish requirement:<\/p>\n Tack level determines adhesion strength on the final surface:<\/p>\n When in doubt, always test on the actual substrate before committing to production volumes.<\/p>\n Verify A film and B film widths match your printer’s print area, with B film 1\u20132cm wider than A film. Ordering both at the same width is a common error that causes lamination alignment problems.<\/p>\n High-quality UV DTF film<\/strong> must satisfy these technical requirements:<\/p>\n Always run a peel test after lamination \u2014 verify A film releases cleanly and B film retains full design detail. Apply to each substrate type you intend to use in production, including glass, acrylic, and coated plastics. Test outdoor adhesion if applicable. Evaluate after 48 hours before ordering at volume.<\/p>\n Understanding the complete UV DTF printing<\/strong> workflow helps you identify where film quality affects output and what to check at each stage.<\/p>\n Create your design in vector or high-resolution raster format. Use RIP software to manage ink layer sequencing \u2014 white base, CMYK, and varnish. The varnish layer is what gives UV DTF transfers<\/strong> their characteristic gloss and scratch resistance.<\/p>\n Peel the protective liner from the A film to expose the printable adhesive surface. Load the A film into the UV DTF printer with the coated printable side facing up toward the print heads.<\/p>\n The UV printer deposits ink in layers: white base first (for opacity), then CMYK colors, then varnish. UV lights cure each layer immediately. The result is a hard, cured ink layer sitting on the surface of the A film’s adhesive coating.<\/p>\n Using a cold laminator, apply B film over the printed A film. The laminator presses the two films together, bonding B film’s pressure-sensitive adhesive to the cured ink surface of A film. Run slowly through the laminator to eliminate bubbles \u2014 air pockets cause transfer failure.<\/p>\n Cut the laminated A+B film to the desired transfer size. No need for precision cutting \u2014 a rough rectangle around the design is sufficient.<\/p>\n Slowly peel the A film backing away from the B film. The cured ink design separates from A film and remains on B film’s adhesive surface. If ink lifts with A film or partially releases, it indicates an ink compatibility issue, insufficient curing, or A film quality problem.<\/p>\n Clean the target surface thoroughly \u2014 dust, oils, and fingerprints are the primary cause of adhesion failure. Place the B film (design facing down) onto the cleaned surface and press firmly using a squeegee, credit card, or fingers, working from center to edges.<\/p>\n Slowly peel B film away at a low angle. The design remains bonded to the surface. If design lifts with B film, the surface was not clean enough, or B film tack level is too low for that substrate.<\/p>\n Cause:<\/strong> Ink undercured, incompatible A film coating, or A film quality issue.<\/p>\n Fix:<\/strong> Increase UV cure intensity or speed. Verify A film is rated for your UV ink chemistry. Test with film from a different production batch.<\/p>\n Cause:<\/strong> Lamination speed too fast, laminator temperature too low, or film curl.<\/p>\n Fix:<\/strong> Reduce laminator speed. Increase laminator temperature to minimum 40\u00b0C. Store film flat in controlled humidity to prevent pre-lamination curl.<\/p>\n Cause:<\/strong> Surface contamination, wrong B film tack level, or substrate incompatibility.<\/p>\n Fix:<\/strong> Clean surface with isopropyl alcohol before application. Test high-tack B film if standard tack is failing. Verify the substrate has a coating that UV DTF adhesive can bond to (silicone surfaces are notoriously difficult).<\/p>\n Cause:<\/strong> A film coating causing ink color shift, or B film adhesive yellowing.<\/p>\n Fix:<\/strong> Verify A film is high-clarity optical grade. Test B film adhesive transparency against a white surface. Check RIP software color profile settings.<\/p>\n Cause:<\/strong> Surface preparation failure, low-tack B film on a difficult substrate, or environmental factors (humidity, heat).<\/p>\n Fix:<\/strong> Improve surface cleaning protocol. Test high-tack B film. Test temperature resistance \u2014 B film adhesive should withstand 100\u00b0C. Avoid outdoor direct UV exposure on white ground transfers.<\/p>\n UV DTF film<\/strong> pricing varies by quality tier, roll width, order volume, and supplier type.<\/p>\n The gap between entry-level and premium UV DTF transfer film<\/strong> is almost entirely accounted for by coating quality:<\/p>\n Pre-cut A3 sheets are always more expensive per transfer than 100m rolls. For production operations, the cost-per-transfer difference between sheets and rolls is typically 40 to 60%. Moving to roll format is the single most impactful cost reduction for established UV DTF printing<\/strong> operations.<\/p>\n UV DTF film<\/strong> purchased through local distributors or online resellers carries a 25 to 45% markup over factory cost. For shops ordering 10+ rolls per month, factory-direct sourcing from a manufacturer like Haiyi \u2014 which produces UV DTF film with in-house coating technology alongside its standard DTF film line \u2014 delivers meaningful long-term savings.<\/p>\n What is UV DTF film used for?<\/strong> UV DTF film<\/strong> is used to create pressure-sensitive transfers that apply UV-printed designs to hard, rigid surfaces \u2014 glass tumblers, acrylic panels, ceramic mugs, metal items, phone cases, wood, plastic, and leather. It is not for fabric. Fabric transfers require standard DTF film with hot-melt powder and a heat press.<\/p>\n What is UV DTF film A and B?<\/strong> UV DTF film A and B<\/strong> refers to the two-roll system used in UV DTF printing. A film is the printable layer \u2014 UV ink is printed directly onto its coated surface. B film is the transfer carrier \u2014 it is laminated over the printed A film, then used to apply the design to the final surface after A film is peeled away. Both films are used in every transfer and are not interchangeable.<\/p>\n Can I use UV DTF film on fabric?<\/strong> No. UV DTF film<\/strong> is designed for hard, non-porous surfaces. UV-curable ink does not bond to fabric fibers the way hot-melt powder does in standard DTF. For fabric transfers, use standard DTF film with water-based pigment ink, hot-melt powder, and a heat press.<\/p>\n Does UV DTF printing require a heat press?<\/strong> No. UV DTF transfers<\/strong> are applied using cold pressure only \u2014 a squeegee, credit card, or fingers. No heat press is required for application. The only heat involved in the process is the UV curing during printing and the laminator temperature during B film application (typically 40\u201360\u00b0C).<\/p>\n What surfaces does UV DTF film NOT work on?<\/strong> UV DTF film performs poorly on silicone, fabric, highly textured surfaces, oily surfaces, and surfaces with soft or powder-coated finishes that can be damaged by adhesive. Always test on the actual substrate before scaling production. Surface cleaning is critical \u2014 even a fingerprint can cause adhesion failure.<\/p>\n What is the difference between clear and white ground UV DTF A film?<\/strong> Clear A film produces a transparent transfer that shows the substrate color through non-printed areas \u2014 best on light surfaces and where transparency is desired. White ground A film has an opaque white base that makes the design fully opaque and vivid on any substrate color, including dark surfaces. White ground transfers are less durable outdoors and may yellow over time.<\/p>\n How do I store UV DTF film rolls?<\/strong> Store rolls horizontally in a cool, dry environment at 15\u201325\u00b0C with 40\u201360% relative humidity. Keep away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Reseal opened rolls in their original packaging between sessions. Improper storage causes curl, adhesive degradation, and feed problems.<\/p>\n What laminator do I need for UV DTF film?<\/strong> A cold roll laminator with adjustable temperature (minimum 40\u00b0C capability) is standard for UV DTF printing<\/strong>. The laminator must handle the combined A+B film width \u2014 for A3 setups, a laminator rated for 32\u201335cm width is typical. Ensure consistent pressure across the full roll width to prevent bubble formation.<\/p>\n How durable are UV DTF transfers?<\/strong> On smooth, clean hard surfaces, high-quality UV DTF transfers<\/strong> are waterproof, scratch-resistant, and UV-resistant. Premium UV inks combined with quality A film can deliver 2+ years of durability on indoor applications. Outdoor durability varies by ink, varnish, and surface conditions \u2014 clear film with UV-resistant varnish outperforms white ground film in outdoor longevity.<\/p>\n What is the minimum order quantity for UV DTF film rolls from a factory?<\/strong> Factory-direct UV DTF film is typically available from 10 to 20 rolls for new wholesale accounts. Established manufacturers offer tiered pricing at higher volumes. OEM packaging with custom branding is generally available from 50 rolls per SKU. Sheet format packs (A3\/A4) often have lower minimums suitable for trial orders.<\/p>\n Why does my UV DTF transfer peel off after a few days?<\/strong> The three most common causes are surface contamination (clean with isopropyl alcohol before application), incorrect B film tack level for the substrate (test high-tack B film), or insufficient pressure during application (use a squeegee and apply firm, even pressure across the entire design). Test adhesion on a sample before customer delivery.<\/p>\n UV DTF film<\/strong> is not complicated once you understand the system. A film prints. B film transfers. The two work together to move a UV-cured design from the printing surface to almost any hard, smooth substrate \u2014 without heat, without powder, and without the equipment complexity of direct UV printing on irregular shapes.<\/p>\n The variables that determine whether your transfers succeed or fail are not mysterious:<\/p>\n\n
What Makes UV DTF Film Different from Regular Transfer Film<\/h3>\n
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UV DTF Film A and B: How the Two-Film System Works<\/h2>\n
A Film (Print Film)<\/h3>\n
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B Film (Transfer \/ Carrier Film)<\/h3>\n
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The Complete A\/B Film Workflow<\/h3>\n
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Types of UV DTF Film<\/h2>\n
Clear A Film (Standard)<\/h3>\n
White Ground A Film<\/h3>\n
Gold and Silver A Film<\/h3>\n
Matte A Film<\/h3>\n
Low-Tack vs. High-Tack B Film<\/h3>\n
UV DTF Film Roll Sizes: Which One Do You Need?<\/h2>\n
Standard Widths<\/h3>\n
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\n \nFilm Type<\/th>\n Standard Width<\/th>\n Printer Compatibility<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n \n A film (A3)<\/td>\n 29\u201330cm<\/td>\n A3 UV DTF printers<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n B film (A3)<\/td>\n 30\u201332cm<\/td>\n A3 UV DTF printers<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n A film (60cm)<\/td>\n 60cm<\/td>\n 60cm UV DTF printers<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n B film (60cm)<\/td>\n 60\u201362cm<\/td>\n 60cm UV DTF printers<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n Standard Roll Length<\/h3>\n
Matching Film Width to Your Printer<\/h3>\n
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Sheet vs. Roll Format<\/h3>\n
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\n \nFormat<\/th>\n Best For<\/th>\n Cost Per Unit<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n \n A3\/A4 sheets<\/td>\n Low volume, sampling, small desktop setups<\/td>\n Higher<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n 100m rolls<\/td>\n Production volume, continuous workflow<\/td>\n Lower<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n UV DTF vs. Standard DTF: What’s the Difference?<\/h2>\n
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\n \nFeature<\/th>\n UV DTF Film<\/th>\n Standard DTF Film<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n \n Ink type<\/td>\n UV-curable ink<\/td>\n Water-based pigment ink<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Transfer method<\/td>\n Cold pressure (no heat)<\/td>\n Heat press<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Requires powder<\/td>\n No<\/td>\n Yes (hot-melt powder)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Target surfaces<\/td>\n Hard, rigid surfaces<\/td>\n Fabric and textiles<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Equipment needed<\/td>\n UV printer + laminator<\/td>\n DTF printer + powder shaker + curing oven<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Works on fabric<\/td>\n No<\/td>\n Yes<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Works on glass\/metal\/acrylic<\/td>\n Yes<\/td>\n No<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Finish<\/td>\n Glossy decal-like<\/td>\n Soft fabric transfer<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Wash durability<\/td>\n High (non-fabric surfaces)<\/td>\n 50+ wash cycles on fabric<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n How to Choose the Right UV DTF Transfer Film<\/h2>\n
Step 1 \u2014 Match A Film Type to Your Output<\/h3>\n
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Step 2 \u2014 Choose B Film Tack for Your Substrates<\/h3>\n
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Step 3 \u2014 Confirm Roll Width and Pairing<\/h3>\n
Step 4 \u2014 Evaluate Film Quality Parameters<\/h3>\n
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Step 5 \u2014 Test Before Scaling<\/h3>\n
Step-by-Step: How UV DTF Printing Works<\/h2>\n
Step 1 \u2014 Design Preparation<\/h3>\n
Step 2 \u2014 Load A Film<\/h3>\n
Step 3 \u2014 Print<\/h3>\n
Step 4 \u2014 Laminate with B Film<\/h3>\n
Step 5 \u2014 Cut to Size<\/h3>\n
Step 6 \u2014 Peel A Film<\/h3>\n
Step 7 \u2014 Apply to Surface<\/h3>\n
Step 8 \u2014 Peel B Film<\/h3>\n
Common UV DTF Problems and How to Fix Them<\/h2>\n
Problem: A Film Does Not Release Cleanly (Ink Lifts with A Film)<\/h3>\n
Problem: Bubbles in the Transfer After Lamination<\/h3>\n
Problem: Design Peels Off the Surface After Application<\/h3>\n
Problem: Color Appears Dull or Different from Design<\/h3>\n
Problem: Transfer Works Initially but Peels After Days<\/h3>\n
UV DTF Film Price: What to Expect<\/h2>\n
Price Range by Tier<\/h3>\n
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\n \nTier<\/th>\n A + B Film Price Per Meter (approx.)<\/th>\n Profile<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n \n Entry-level (generic)<\/td>\n $0.12 \u2013 $0.20<\/td>\n Inconsistent release, adhesive clarity issues<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Mid-range<\/td>\n $0.20 \u2013 $0.35<\/td>\n Adequate for standard applications<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Premium factory-direct<\/td>\n $0.28 \u2013 $0.45<\/td>\n Consistent coating, high clarity, OEM available<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n What Drives the Price Difference<\/h3>\n
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Sheet vs. Roll Pricing<\/h3>\n
Factory-Direct vs. Distributor Pricing<\/h3>\n
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Conclusion<\/h2>\n
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